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How to Make a Garment
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To make a garment which you would like to wear again and again means that it has to fit your body and compliment it. It is not that difficult to do if you have a pretty standard body and a garment you chose has a classical style. If it is not a case, it is safer to make a paper pattern to be sure your garment will fit you when you finish it.
I have a misfortune of being not standard. All the schematics provided with patterns just don't work for me. That's why I've always had a small-scale pattern for each of my projects since I stated to knit and crochet.
I think it is not a bad idea to have a full-scale paper pattern in case you are going to make a garment which is not classical and requires some special adjustments.
Here is my experience. I buy the cheapest knit fabric ( it is pretty stretchy similar to a hand crocheted/knitted fabric), pin a full scale paper pattern to the fabric, outline it, and cut the pattern pieces remembering about seaming allowances.
After the pieces are seamed together, one can easily see what kinds of alterations necessary to make a garment fit exactly.
What do you need to make a garment pattern? You will need a helper to do 10 measurements. Look at the picture for the corresponding numbering.
1. Bust circumference. Measure around the fullest part of the bust. For calculation we will use 1/2 of this measurement - BS/2.
2.Back waist height (line NW) - BWH
3.Back length (line NH) - BL
4. 1/2 Back width (line B1B2) - BW/2
5.1/2 bust width (line B3B4)- BSW/2
6.1/2 neck circumference - NC/2
7.Neck-shoulder length - NSL
8.1/2 arm circumference - AS/2
9.1/2 cuff circumference - CC/2
10.Arm length - AL
To make a garment pattern base grid.
To make the process of making garment pattern easier, let's start from the base grid.
It can be used for both set-in sleeves and raglan garments. Here are the measurements we will use for calculations.
Important Note:
1. Schematic pattern is designed for knit and crochet garments. Doesn't work for sewing projects.
2.Works the best for the patterns with bust circumference (BS/2) no more than 50 cm (20 in).
To make a base grid, start from point A :
AA3 = BC / 2 + 2 sm = 48 cm + 2 cm = 50 cm
AA3 = BC / 2 + 0.8 in = 19 in + 0.8 in = 19.8 in
Burst line
AB = (BC / 2) / 3 +5 cm = 48 cm / 3 + 5 cm = 21 cm
AB = (BC / 2) / 3 +2 in = 19 in / 3 + 2 in = 8.3 in
Waist line
AB = BWH = 38 cm
AB = BWH = 15 in
Hip line
Depending on your hight, a hip line is located 16 - 20 cm (6.3 - 7.9 in) below the waist line. I chose an average - 18 cm (7.1 in)
WH = 18 cm
WH = 7.1 in
Back-width line
AA1 = BW / 2 = 19 cm
AA1 = BW / 2 = 7.5 in
AA1 = BB1
Front-width line
A3A2 = BSW / 2 = 19 cm
A3A2 = BSW / 2 = 7.5 in
A3A2 = B4B3
Side seam line
Distance B1B2=(AA3-BB1-B3B4)/2 = (50-19-19) / 2 = 12 / 2 = 6 cm
Distance B1B2 = (19.8 - 7.5 - 7.5) / 2 = 4.8 / 2 = 2.4 in
B1B2 = B2B3
Related Pages.
Make a Sweater: How to make a set-in sleeves sweater pattern.
A Plus Size Sweater: How to change a regular sweater pattern.
A Seamless Sweater: How to knit a seamless sweater.
Crochet Scarf: How to crochet a scarf.
How to knit a scarf. Step-by-step instruction and 12 models of scarves.
Crochet Top: How to crochet a sleeveles top of motifs.
Sweater Pattern: How to make a drop-shoulder sweater pattern.
Cardigan Sweater: A drop-shoulder cardigan for women.
A Baby Sweater: Make your pattern. Step-by-step instruction.
A Knitting Hat Pattern: Step-by-step instruction.
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