How to Join Knitting in the Round with Circular Needles (Without Twisting Your Stitches)

How to Join Knitting in the Round by Janice Jones, Updated June 23, 2026

You’ve cast on your stitches, you’re holding your circular needles, and now the pattern says, “join in the round.”

If you’ve ever paused here and thought, "Wait, how exactly do I do that?" you're not alone. This little step can feel intimidating the first few times, but I promise—it’s much simpler than it looks once you know what to check for.

Joining in the round is one of those magical knitting moments that transforms your work from flat fabric into a smooth, seamless tube. It’s the technique behind hats, cowls, socks, and sweaters—projects with no bulky seams and that look beautifully professional from every angle.

Stitches are being placed on a circular needle

In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through how to join knitting in the round step-by-step, explain how to avoid twisting your stitches, and share several easy methods knitters use to create a neat, gap-free start. 

So, grab your needles, take a deep breath, and let’s make your first round a success—no twists and no gaps. Before we get to the step-by-step instructions, let's take a quick look at what joining in the round actually means.

What Does “Joining in the Round” Mean?

When you join knitting in the round, you connect the first and last cast-on stitches to form a continuous loop. This creates a seamless tube of fabric that’s worked in circular rows—called rounds—rather than back-and-forth rows that you make on straight needles.

Once joined, the right side of your work always faces you, so you never turn your needles at the end of a row. To join correctly, the working yarn must be positioned at the right edge of the first stitch on the left-hand needle.

The goal is to close the gap between the two ends of the cast-on edge without twisting the stitches along the needle. If the cast-on edge spirals around the needle instead of lying flat, your fabric will twist permanently, so checking for alignment before joining is essential.

As an Aside:  Use Circular Needles to Work Flat

I know that this article is all about joining in the round, but beginners may not know that you can also use those circular needles to work flat.  Many knitters do not even own straight needles!  

With that said, I have a little confession to make:  I learned to knit on straight needles and circulars were new to me.  Even though I was told I could use these circulars to knit flat, I always ended up joining my flat knitting in the round until I discovered a simple truth: If you want to work flat, keep your working yarn attached to the left needle, when you want ot work in the round position your working yarn so it's attached to the right needle.  

Position Your Needles and Yarn for Working in the Round

How to position the needles and working yarn for working in the roundFor working in the round, the working yarn should be attached to the right needle.

Position Your Needles and Yarn for Working Flat on Circular Needles

Position working yarn coming from left needle if you want to work flatFor working flat, the working yarn should be attached to the left needle.

Before You Join: The Pre-Join Checklist

Before you begin knitting in the round, take a moment to set yourself up for success. A few seconds of preparation here will prevent frustration later. These simple checks ensure your stitches are untwisted, evenly distributed, and ready to form a smooth, continuous circle.

  1. Spread Out Your Stitches
  2. Check for Twists
  3. Position Your Working Yarn
  4. Add a Stitch Marker

Spread Out Your Stitches

Use your choice of cast-on methods.  Slide all your cast-on stitches along the cable so they lie flat and evenly spaced. Make sure the cast-on edge forms a smooth ring.

Check For Twists

Stitches on circular needles show what it looks like when those stitches are twisted.I laid the needles on a hard surface and noticed that these stitches were twisted. I will need to straighten out the stitches before I join in the round.

Set your circular needles on a flat surface. Look closely at the base of the stitches along the needle. The little edge bumps from your cast-on should all face the same direction (either toward the inside or the outside of the circle). If they spiral around the needle, your work is twisted—straighten it before joining.

Yarn positioned correctly on circular needles with no twisted stitchesThe stitches are now positioned correctly with no twisted stitches

Position the Working Yarn Correctly

The strand attached to your ball of yarn (the working yarn) should come from the last stitch you cast on from right needleand be ready to knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle. (See photo above)

Add a Stitch Marker

Place a locking or ring marker on your right-hand needle to mark the beginning of the round. Alternately, create a slip knot into a small piece of yarn (4 inches long is fine) and use this scrap yarn as a stitch marker.  It will help you keep track of pattern repeats and identify where each round starts.

Interlocking stitch markers used to join knitting in the round
Slip knot created in scrap yarn to aid in joining knitting in the round
A ring shaped stitch marker used to join knitting in the round

Double-Check Your Stitch Count

Before you join, count the stitches one more time to confirm you haven’t added or dropped one during setup.

Materials and Skills You’ll Need

  • Circular needles (16", 24", or longer, depending on project).  See below for help in selecting the correct length.
  • Stitch marker for the beginning of the round
  • Yarn of choice
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Skills Needed

Three Ways to Join Knitting in the Round on Circular Needles

There’s more than one way to join your stitches in the round, and each creates a slightly different look at the start of your project.

The goal in every case is the same: to connect the first and last cast-on stitches into a smooth circle without twisting your stitches or leaving a gap.

Here are three easy, reliable methods that work beautifully on circular needles:

1. Standard Join (The Classic Method)

One method for joining in the round is to just start knitting

Best for: Most projects and beginners learning the technique.

This is the simplest and most commonly used method. After checking that your cast-on edge isn’t twisted:

  • Cast on the required number of stitches.
  • Spread the stitches evenly along the cable. Lay the needle on a table and check for twists. The working yarn should be attached to the stitch closest to the tip of your right-hand needle. This ensures you're ready to knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle when you join.

    • Place a stitch marker on your right-hand needle to mark the beginning of the round.

    Move the first cast-on stitch to the tip of the left needle. Insert the right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle and knit it using the working yarn.

    Pull the yarn snugly to close the gap between the needles. Continue knitting around.

    That first knit stitch “joins” the circle. You can weave in the cast-on tail later to reinforce the join.

    Pros: Fast, easy, and it works on any project.
    Cons: May leave a tiny gap if tension isn’t firm on the first stitch.

    2. The Extra-Stitch (Invisible) Join

    Best for: Hats, sleeves, cowls, or any project where you want a seamless start. This simple “extra stitch” action locks the first and last stitches together and hides the join inside the fabric.

    One method for joining in the round is to add one stitch to stitch countAdd one additional stitch to your stitch count

    Add one extra stitch to the cast on beyond the required number. Spread stitches evenly along your circular needle and check for twists.

    Slip the first cast-on stitch from the left needle to the right needle.

    Slip the extra cast on stitch to the left needle.Pass the extra cast-on stitch from the right to the left needle.

    Pass the extra stitch (the one you just cast on) over it — just like binding off — then place a stitch marker and begin knitting in the round.

    Pass the first cast on stitch over the stitch slipped from the right needlePass the first cast-on stitch over the stitch slipped from the right needle and tug on the yarn to tighten the join.

    Pros: Very neat and gap-free; tension looks professional.
    Cons: Slightly trickier for absolute beginners; affects total stitch count (remember to cast on one extra).

    3. The Flat-Row Join (Anti-Twist Method)

    Method Three: Knit the first row flat before joining in the round.

    Best for: Projects with a large number of stitches — like sweaters or yokes — where twisting is easy to miss. Instead of joining immediately, work one flat row first:

    After casting on, knit (or purl, depending on your pattern) one complete row back and forth — do not join yet.

    Next bring the ends together, check for twists, and join by knitting the first stitch of the next round.

    There will be a tiny gap at the base of the join, which you can close later with the tail.

    Pros: Guarantees no twist; excellent for large cast-ons.
    Cons: Leaves a small seam at the join that’s barely noticeable after blocking.

    What is Your Favorite Join In the Round Method?

    One thing that I learned that there is no one way to knit.  You can watch tons of YouTube Videos and still not find one that resonates with you.  I guess my Ah Ha moment was that what works for me may not work for you.  Choose one that works and finish your project.  Try another method with the next project.  Both are fine.  My favorite?  I think all three methods have merit but I like the way the the join looks with the extra stitch method.  But don't let me sway you.  Try them all.

    Choosing the Right Circular Needle Length

    An assortment of circular needles on a white background

    The number of stitches you can cast on comfortably depends on the length of your circular needle and the gauge (stitch size) of your project.

    If the cable is too short, your stitches will stretch; if it’s too long, they’ll bunch up, making joining difficult.

    Here’s a general guideline for worsted-weight yarn (about 4–5 sts per inch). Adjust slightly up or down for finer or bulkier yarns.  See the needle-length chart below for help choosing the correct length.

    Circular Needle Length Vs. Number of Stitches

    These stitch counts are only rough guidelines. The actual number of stitches that fit comfortably depends on your yarn weight, needle size, and personal knitting tension.

    Approximate Number of Stitches That Fit Comfortably on Circular Needles
    Needle Length Approx. Circumference of Project Typical Projects Approx. Stitch Range (worsted weight)
    9–12 inches (23–30 cm) 10–14 in (25–36 cm) Sleeves, baby hats, cuffs 40–60 stitches
    16 inches (40 cm) 16–20 in (40–51 cm) Adult hats, cowls, necklines 60–100 stitches
    20 inches (50 cm) 20–24 in (50–61 cm) Small cowls, child sweaters 90–120 stitches
    24 inches (60 cm) 24–28 in (61–71 cm) Adult sweater bodies, larger cowls 110–160 stitches
    32 inches (80 cm) 30–40 in (76–102 cm) Adult sweaters, shawls, blanket panels 150–240 stitches
    40 inches (100 cm) or longer 40 in + (102 cm +) Blankets, afghans, Magic Loop knitting 230 stitches or more

    Troubleshooting Common Problems 

    Troubleshooting table CSS (place this once per page, ideally in your ) -->
    Troubleshooting Common Problems (Joining in the Round)
    Issue What It Looks Like Likely Cause Quick Fix Prevent It Next Time
    Gap at the join A small hole between the first and last cast-on stitch Loose tension on the first stitch; no tail support On the next round, tug the tail snugly; duplicate stitch or use the tail to sew the gap closed Use the extra-stitch (invisible) join and K2tog at the end of round 1; pull the first two stitches snugly
    Twisted join Fabric spirals; cast-on edge flips around the needle Cast-on edge twisted before joining Unfortunately, rip back and re-cast on Lay work flat on a table; ensure all cast-on bumps face inward; or knit one flat row, then join
    Ladders between DPNs/loop breaks Vertical columns of loose stitches at needle transitions Loose tension at the first stitch on a new needle Tighten the second stitch after each needle change; shift division points occasionally Use Magic Loop or 2-circulars; consciously snug the second stitch on each needle
    Jog in pattern (rib/stripe misalignment) Rib or stripes don’t line up at the beginning-of-round BO/round change offset; no jogless technique used Use a jogless stripe method; for rib, slip first stitch of round and adjust on next round Mark BOR clearly; use jogless join for stripes; plan pattern starts on a less visible seam line
    Marker keeps slipping off Lose track of beginning-of-round frequently Open ring or too-large marker on small needles Switch to a locking/removable marker or smaller closed ring Use contrasting, snug-fit marker; consider a scrap-yarn loop tied in place
    Uneven first round First round looks looser or misshapen Tension change from flat to circular; excitement/nerves at the join Even out stitches by gently smoothing fabric; block lightly if needed Practice on a swatch; pause to reset grip before the first 6–8 stitches
    Wrong stitch count after joining Missing/extra stitch by the end of round 1 Dropped the first stitch; or used an extra-stitch join without planned decrease Count at the end of round 1; add/remove with an increase/decrease as needed If using extra-stitch method, plan the K2tog at the round’s end; count before & after joining
    Tight cable kink (Magic Loop) Cable twists or fights you at the join Loop not centered; too-short cable for project Re-center loops; relax grip; use a longer circular (32–40") Choose adequate cable length; warm/straighten cable before starting

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Can you fix a twisted join after knitting a few rounds?

    Sadly, no. You’ll need to unravel. But see “flat-row join” above to prevent it next time.

    How tight should the first stitch be?

    Snug but not pulled.  If it is too tight, the fabric will be distorted.   

    Do you always need a stitch marker?

    Not necessarily. Most beginners find a stitch marker helpful because it clearly marks the beginning of the round. As you gain experience, you may find that the yarn tail serves the same purpose.

    Can you join knitting in the round with any cast-on method?

    Yes, but the Long-Tail or Cable Cast-On gives the most stable edge.

    Can I join knitting in the round on straight needles?

    No. To knit in the round you'll need circular needles, double-pointed needles, or another circular knitting method.

    Why is there a hole where I joined?

    A small gap is common and can usually be closed by tightening the first stitch or weaving in the yarn tail.

    What happens if my circular needle is too long?

    The stitches will stretch out along the length of cables and make them hard to knit.

    Last Words

    Joining knitting in the round might feel intimidating at first, but with a bit of practice, it becomes second nature. Once you’ve mastered this simple step, an entire world of circular projects opens up.

    Remember, the key is to check for twists before you join and keep your tension snug on that first stitch. Whether you prefer the quick standard join or the extra-stitch method for a perfectly smooth start, every knitter eventually finds their favorite.

    Take your time, enjoy the process, and celebrate that first seamless circle — it’s one of the most satisfying moments in knitting!

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