by Janice Jones, Last Updated 07-22-2026
Intarsia knitting, or colorblock knitting, is a colorwork technique used to create blocks of color, pictures, shapes, letters, and simple images in knitted fabric. Instead of carrying unused yarn across the back of the work, as you would in stranded knitting, each color section has its own small ball, butterfly, or bobbin. It is worked flat with straight needles.
That may sound complicated at first, but intarsia becomes much easier once you understand one important rule: every time you change colors, the two yarns must be twisted together so the fabric does not leave a hole.
In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through intarsia knitting slowly, beginning with the basic idea, the supplies you need, how to manage the yarn, how to read a simple chart, and how to fix the most common beginner problems. You do not need to start with an argyle sweater or a complicated picture. A small practice swatch is the best place to begin.

In my opinion, the most challenging aspect of Intarsia is managing the extensive yarn required to create your designs.
Each section of a color requires a separate yarn source, which can be accomplished by wrapping a supply of yarn into a small ball or wrapping it around a bobbin.
This doesn’t sound challenging, but you can get overwhelmed by the number of balls that are used to make one project. The first time I tried this, I ended up with a tangled mess of little yarn balls. I spent more time untangling than knitting.
If you're wondering how intarsia compares with other colorwork methods, here's a quick overview.
| Technique | How Color Is Applied | Yarn Usage / Management | Fabric & Texture | Best For | Typical Difficulty* |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stranded (Fair Isle) | Two or more colors per row; unused color carried behind as floats. | Manage 2 yarns; keep even tension on floats. | Thicker, warmer fabric; floats limit long color spans. | Traditional, repeating motifs. | Intermediate |
| Intarsia | Separate yarns for each block of color; no floats. | Use bobbins; twist yarns at joins. | Flat, smooth fabric with crisp color edges. | Large color blocks or pictures. | Intermediate |
| Duplicate Stitch | Embroidered over stitches after knitting. | No yarn management while knitting. | Same feel as base fabric; slightly thicker at embroidery. | Adding motifs or letters post-knitting. | Beginner |
| Slip Stitch | One color per row; contrast created by slipping stitches. | Single working yarn per row. | Firm texture; no floats to manage. | Simple color patterns and repeats. | Beginner |
| Mosaic Knitting | Slip-stitch colorwork using two colors alternately. | One yarn per row following a chart. | Dense, graphic texture with clear geometric shapes. | Bold two-color designs. | Beginner–Intermediate |
*Difficulty is approximate and assumes basic knitting skills.
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Before we get into doing intarsia, I think we should look at how to manage all that yarn. As I mentioned above, managing the various strands of yarn is the most challenging part of this knitting technique because they are prone to tangling.
As knitters, we’d rather be knitting than detangling yarn. Many knitters hate Intarsia because the frustration of managing the yarn takes all the fun out of knitting.
Each section of a design will require its own ball or bobbin of yarn, so you may have many little balls hanging from your hook. For example, if you want to knit my little heart pattern above, you would need three balls of yarn, two balls of white, and one ball of red.
To get started with Intarsia knitting, you'll need:
Now that you've gathered what you need, the next challenge is keeping all those yarns organized.
You have basically three ways to get started with Intarsia:
Here are a few of the more common ways that knitters manage the yarn:
I found a little video that will explain these methods:

If you want to try using "butterflies" to create a hand-wound bobbin, it's not hard, but there is a trick. Just winding the yarn around your fingers will result in a bobbin that comes entirely undone. Here are the steps:

Intarsia charts are fairly straightforward. Each square represents a stitch, and the chart designates where to make the color changes.



Most intarsia charts are read from bottom to top. If you are knitting flat, read right-side rows from right to left, then wrong-side rows from left to right. This helps the chart match the direction you are actually knitting.
The most important intarsia skill is learning how to twist the yarns together when you change colors. If you simply drop one color and start knitting with the next color, a gap or hole will appear between the two color blocks.
To prevent that hole, hold the old color you are currently using in your left hand and bring it over to the left. Hold the new color in your right hand and move it up from underneath the old color and over before making the next stitch. This twists the two yarns together on the wrong side of the fabric, neatly joining the color blocks. If the first stitch is a little loose, tug a little on the yarn to snug it up.
Color changes occur on the purl side the same way as the knit side, but you will purl the stitches instead of knitting them.
When you move the old and new yarns as I just described, you are actually linking them by crossing them. This prevents the holes from occurring.
The goal is not to pull hard. The goal is to connect the two yarns just enough so the stitches sit side by side without a gap. This feels awkward for everyone in the first few rows.
This process is used on both the right side (knit row) and the wrong side (purl row)
Before starting a real project, try a small two-color practice swatch. This lets you practice changing colors, twisting the yarns, and controlling your tension without worrying about ruining a larger project.
You will need three yarn sources for this swatch: one Color A section on the left, one Color B section in the center, and another Color A section on the right. Even though both outside sections use the same color, they need separate yarn sources because you are not carrying the yarn across the back. This swatch is created using only the stockinette stitch pattern (Knit 1 row, Purl 1 row).
On row 5, when the color changes begin, tie the new color on with a little half-knot as shown in the video below, or just start knitting.
Cast on 20 stitches with Color A.
Here is a chart that shows how your swatch should appear.
Notice that the chart shows white and blue, but that does not mean your swatch needs to be white and blue. Use whatever colors you have on hand.
Here is another master knitter with TKGA who demonstrates these techniques.
What is intarsia knitting?
Intarsia knitting is a colorwork technique that uses separate yarn strands for each color block. Unlike stranded knitting, the yarns aren’t carried across the back — instead, they’re twisted together at color changes to create clean, non-bulky sections of color.
Is intarsia knitting good for beginners?
Yes! Intarsia knitting is beginner-friendly once you understand the basics of color changes. It’s a great way to create patterns and images in your knitting without floats or tangled multiple strands. But it is challenging at first until you get the hang of managing yarn tails and switching between colors.
How is intarsia different from Fair Isle knitting?
Fair Isle carries yarns across the back of the work (called “floats”), while intarsia uses separate yarn sections for each color block. This makes intarsia better suited for large color areas, while Fair Isle works best for small, repeating motifs.
Can you do intarsia knitting in the round?
Technically yes, but it’s tricky. Intarsia is much easier to knit flat due to the way its color joins are made. If you try it in the round, you’ll need special techniques like yarn wraps or duplicate stitch for color changes.
What yarns work best for intarsia knitting?
Smooth, non-slippery yarns (like wool or cotton blends) are best for intarsia knitting because they help maintain tension and keep color edges crisp. Avoid fuzzy or very slippery yarns when learning.
How do you avoid holes between color blocks?
Twist the two strands of yarn around each other every time you switch colors. This closes gaps between blocks and creates a seamless join. Many beginners miss this step, which is why holes appear. Here are some solutions:
What are some easy intarsia projects for beginners?
Start with simple geometric patterns like hearts, diamonds, or stripes. Once you’re comfortable managing multiple colors, you can move on to pictures or lettering patterns.
Why does the wrong side of my work look messy?
This is usually a tension problem that goes away with continued practice. Some ideas to help keep the wrong side tidy include:
Why do the edges of the color changes look uneven?
Tension is usually a problem, whether you are pulling on the yarn too tightly or too loosely when making color changes. Tension problems normally get better with practice.
This article is just the beginning. Explore other techniques to get a deeper understanding of Intarsia.
Color Theory and How it Relates to Choosing Yarn Colors in Intarsia
Intarsia is considered an intermediate-to-advanced technique, so if you are a beginner, I recommend waiting a while before attempting it. This advice comes from experience as I tried this technique very early on, even before truly understanding knitting.
Be kind to yourself. This is not an easy technique to master, so give yourself time. I shied away from this type of colorwork. I was intimidated by all those yarns hanging from my needles. Yes, this takes practice—but you've now learned the fundamentals you need to begin.
Tensioning was also a problem for me, so I eventually took a class to help me build some confidence. Consider this tutorial as an introduction; additional training may be helpful.
Please avoid starting with a sweater that has numerous color changes per row. It's not advised, as it can turn you off to this color knitting technique. Begin with simple projects and gradually progress to more intricate designs.
Janice