Close Check Knitting Stitch Pattern by Janice Jones Updated March 18, 2026

The close-check knitting stitch pattern is a beginner-friendly knit-and-purl design that creates a tidy, geometric texture. It looks a little like a small-scale checkerboard, with blocks of stockinette and reverse stockinette alternating to form a reversible fabric. Because it lies flat and uses only basic stitches, it is a great choice for scarves, washcloths, blankets, pillow covers, and other easy knitting projects.
In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to knit the close check stitch flat and in the round, read the chart, and use the pattern in a simple practice project. If you already know how to knit and purl, you can make this stitch.
Skill Level: Basic
Stitch Multiples: 6 + 3
Row Repeats: 8
Reversible: Yes
Techniques Used: Knit and Purl Stitches Only
Lies Flat
Worked in the Round: Yes
This pattern reminds me a little of the basketweave stitch because it consists of little boxes of stitches. Stockinette stitches alternate with reverse stockinette stitches to create a geometric pattern.
The thing I love about this stitch is that it creates a fabric that would be good for making a cowl, scarf, pillow cover, or even a blanket.
It is accomplished by working on a multiple of 6 plus 3 and is an 8-row repeat. But, it's still beginner-friendly because all you need to know is knit and purl stitches.
At first, I thought I had made a mistake by creating 3 pages on this website about the same stitch, but as I looked more closely, I saw three separate knit patterns that looked similar but were actually different stitches.
Close CheckStitch Multiples: 6 + 3
Row Repeat: 8
Each little square = 3 sts
Reversible
Simple CheckerStitch Multiple: 8 + 4
Row Repeat: 10
Each little square = 4 sts
Reversible
Garter CheckerboardStitch Multiple: 10 + 5
Row Repeat: 14
Each little square: 5 sts.
Not Reversible
k = knit
p = purl
CO = Cast on
BO = Bind off
Rnd = Round
st/sts. = stitch/stitches
* * Repeat the instructions contained between the two asterisks for the number of times indicated
Cast On: Multiples of 6 + 3
Row 1: (RS): P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of
row.
Row 2: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 3: P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 4: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 5: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 6: P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 7: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 8: P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 to 8 for the pattern.

Cast on a multiple of 3
Round 1: *K3, P3;
repeat from * to end.
Round 2: K3, P3; repeat from * to end.
Round 3: K3, P3; repeat from * to end.
Round 4: P3, K3; repeat from * to end.
Round 5: P3, K3; repeat from * to end.
Round 6: P3, K3; repeat from * to end.
Round 7: K3, P3; repeat from * to end.
Round 8: K3, P3; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rounds 1 to 8 for the pattern
If your close check pattern does not look very clear at first, do not worry. This stitch becomes easier to see after several rows, once the little blocks begin to form.
My fabric does not look like little checks yet. Keep going for at least one full repeat. The texture becomes much more obvious after rows 4 to 8.
I keep losing my place in the pattern. Try counting in groups of 3 stitches, since each block is built around groups of 3 knits and 3 purls.
My tension looks uneven. Knit and purl patterns often look a little uneven before blocking. A light block can help smooth the fabric and make the checks look more defined.
The edges look messy. Pay close attention to the first and last 3 stitches of each row. Beginners often rush the edges, which can make the swatch look less tidy.
I mixed up rows 1 through 4 and rows 5 through 8. A row counter can help, since the stitch shifts halfway through the repeat.
Tip: If you are learning this stitch for the first time, use a light-colored yarn with good stitch definition. It will make the pattern much easier to see.
The best yarns for the close check knitting stitch are smooth yarns with good stitch definition. Because this pattern relies on the contrast between knit and purl sections, you will usually see it best in yarns that are not too fuzzy or heavily textured.
Cotton yarn is a lovely choice for washcloths and dishcloths, which is why it worked well for my sample. Wool, wool blends, and smooth acrylic yarns also work nicely for scarves, blankets, and home decor projects.
If you want the checker texture to stand out clearly, choose a solid or lightly tonal yarn. Very busy variegated yarns can distract from the pattern and make the little checks harder to see.
For beginners, a worsted-weight yarn in a lighter color is usually the easiest option. It helps the stitch pattern show up well while you are learning the repeat.
Is the close check knitting stitch good for beginners?
Yes. This stitch is beginner-friendly because it uses only knit and purl stitches. If you already know those two basic stitches, you can learn this pattern.
Is the close check stitch reversible?
Yes. Both sides are attractive, which makes this stitch a nice choice for scarves, blankets, and washcloths.
Does the close check stitch curl?
No. This stitch generally lies flat, which is one reason it works well for practical projects.
What can I make with the close check stitch?
This stitch works well for washcloths, dishcloths, scarves, cowls, blankets, pillow covers, and stitch sampler projects.
I decided to create a bright green washcloth while practicing this pattern. It's your choice, you can make a small swatch or use the directions below to make a dishcloth/washcloth.
Cast On: Multiples of 6 + 3
Beginner/Easy
7 inches by 7 inches
For this tutorial, I cast on 33 stitches using the long-tail cast-on method (6 x 5) + 3 = 33. This is large enough to create a washcloth, if you want a project to complete while learning this stitch.
Row 1: P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 3: P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 4: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 5: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 6: P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 7: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 8: P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of row.
Continue this pattern until you reach your desired length. Bind off in pattern and weave in ends.
If you would like to add a little border, a simple crochet border using single crochet and half double crochet stitches adds about another inch to the washcloth.

To make this border, you will need to know a little about crochet.
How to make the single crochet stitch
How to make the half double crochet stitch
Make a slip stitch using a contrasting cotton yarn. Attach with a 4.5 mm (7) crochet hook in any corner of the washcloth.
Work one single crochet stitch in each knit stitch around the perimeter. When you reach a corner, work two single crochet stitches, one chain and then two more single crochet in the same corner space. Slip stitch to connect last stitch to the first one you made.
You can end there, or add an additional round of half double crochet. To add this round, chain 3. Work one half double crochet stitch, one chain and two more half double crochet stitches into the same corner space. Work one half double crochet in each stitch around working two half double crochet, one chain, two more half double crochet in each corner. Fasten off and work in ends.
The close-check knitting stitch pattern is a simple yet attractive design that turns basic knit and purl stitches into a neat geometric texture. It is easy to learn, reversible, and practical for many different kinds of projects.
If you are looking for a stitch that feels a little more interesting than plain ribbing or stockinette but is still beginner-friendly, this is a wonderful pattern to try. Once you have worked a few repeats, the rhythm becomes very easy to remember.
Whether you use it for a small practice swatch, a washcloth, or a larger project, the close check stitch is a classic pattern worth adding to your stitch library.
