How to Knit the King Charles Brocade Stitch

by Janice Jones, Last updated May 15, 2026

The King Charles Brocade Stitch is a richly textured knit pattern that creates an elegant raised design using only knit and purl stitches. The combination of ribbed columns and recessed sections gives the fabric a refined, almost woven appearance that resembles historical brocade fabrics.

This stitch belongs to the knit and purl stitch family because the texture is formed entirely through combinations of knit and purl stitches rather than cables or lace techniques.

Although the pattern uses a 12-row repeat, the stitch sequence becomes easier to recognize after a few repeats, making it a good challenge for adventurous beginners who want to move beyond basic ribbing and seed stitch patterns.

The King Charles Brocade Stitch works especially well for decorative scarves, pillows, textured panels, and elegant accessories where the raised stitch detail can stand out clearly.

King Charles Brocade At a Glance

• Skill Level:  Easy (adventurous beginners)
• The pattern lies relatively flat, making it great for rectangular projects.
• The combination of purls and knits gives it a woven, brocade-like appearance.
• Use a solid color to highlight the stitch detail.
• Worked on a multiple of 12 + 1, meaning 25, 37, etc.
• 12-row repeat
• It is not reversible, but it looks nice on both sides

A Little Bit of History

From the book, A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, by Barbara G. Walker, she writes, 

Instructions for Knitting the King Charles Brocade Stitch Pattern

Skills Needed

• Casting on and binding off
• Knit (K)
• Purl (P)
• Reading a 12-row repeat pattern
• Maintaining stitch count and alignment
• Following a knit chart
• Weave in Ends
• Blocking

Supplies

• Worsted weight yarn (or yarn of your choice) I used a light blue worsted-weight acrylic yarn and number 7 (4.5 mm) needles
• US Size 7–9 (4.5–5.5 mm) knitting needles
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Row counter or stitch markers (recommended)

Abbreviations

K = knit
P = purl
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
St(s) = stitch, stitches
Rep = repeat
** Repeat the instructions between the two asterisks

Written Instructions for Working Flat on Straight Needles

Cast on a multiple of 12 stitches, plus 1.

Row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, k9, p1, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): K1, p1, k1, *p7, (k1, p1) twice, k1; rep from * to last 10 sts, p7, k1, p1, k1.
Row 3: (K1, P1) twice, *K5, (P1, K1) 3 times, P1; rep from * to last 9 sts, K5, (P1, K1) twice
Row 4: P2, *K1, P1, K1, P3; rep from * to last 5 sts, K1, P1, K1, P2
Row 5: K3, *(P1, K1) 3 times, P1, K5; rep from * to last 10 sts, (P1, K1) 3 times, P1, K3
Row 6: P4, *(K1, P1) twice, K1, P7; rep from * to last 9 sts, (K1, P1) twice, K1, P4
Row 7: K5, *P1, K1, P1, K9; rep from * to last 8 sts, P1, K1, P1, K5
Row 8: Repeat Row 6
Row 9: Repeat Row 5
Row 10: Repeat Row 4
Row 11: Repeat Row 3
Row 12: Repeat Row 2

Repeat Rows 1–12 for the pattern.  Then, bind off and weave in ends.  Block if needed.

Instructions for Working Flat in Chart Form

Remember, read this chart from right to left from the lower right hand corner.  The first row is the right side and the second row is the wrong side.

Written Instructions for Working in the Round

Cast on a multiple of 12.  Join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.  Add a stitch marker to indicate where the round begins.

Round 1: *K1, p1, k9, p1; rep from * around.
Round 2: *P1, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1; rep from * around.
Round 3: *(K1, p1) twice, k5, p1, k1, p1; rep from * around.
Round 4: *K2, p1, k1, p1, k3, (p1, k1) twice; rep from * around.
Round 5: *K3, p1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2; rep from * around.
Round 6: *K4, p1, (k1, p1) twice, k3; rep from * around.
Round 7: *K5, p1, k1, p1, k4; rep from * around.
Round 8: Repeat round 6.
Round 9: Repeat round 5.
Round 10: Repeat round 4.
Round 11: Repeat round 3.
Round 12: Repeat round 2.

Repeat Rounds 1-12 for the pattern.

Suggested Uses

• Elegant scarf panels
• Textured pillow fronts
• Decorative blanket borders
• Structured cowls
• Accent panels for sweaters or bags

Common Problems with the King Charles Brocade Stitch

My Brocade Pattern Does Not Line Up

If the raised motifs do not line up, the most likely cause is that one knit or purl stitch shifted out of place. This stitch pattern depends on the knit and purl sections lining up across the 12-row repeat.

Stop as soon as the pattern looks wrong. Compare your current row with the row below it and check whether the purl bumps and knit columns are still forming the expected design. If the mistake happened several stitches back, it is usually better to unknit to that point rather than keep going.

I Lost Track of the 12-Row Repeat

A 12-row repeat can feel intimidating, even though the stitch only uses knits and purls. Use a row counter, sticky note, ruler, or pencil mark to track each row as you work.

If you are working from printed instructions, cover the rows below your current row so your eyes do not jump ahead. If you are using a chart, move a sticky note upward as each row is completed.

My Stitch Texture Is Hard to See

The King Charles Brocade Stitch shows best in smooth, solid-colored yarn. Fuzzy yarn, dark yarn, tweed yarn, or highly variegated yarn can hide the raised brocade texture.

If your texture is hard to see, try a light or medium-colored yarn with good stitch definition. Blocking can also help the knit and purl sections settle so the design becomes clearer.

My Wrong Side Does Not Look Neat

This stitch is not fully reversible, so the wrong side will not look the same as the right side. However, it should still look tidy and structured.

If the wrong side looks messy, check your tension when switching between knit and purl stitches. Uneven tension can make the back of the work look more irregular than it needs to.

My Fabric Looks Uneven

Uneven fabric usually comes from tension changes between knit and purl stitches. This is especially common in brocade-style patterns because the stitches shift from row to row.

Try slowing down when moving between knit and purl sections. After knitting your swatch, light blocking can help smooth the fabric while still preserving the raised texture.

My Edges Look Untidy

The edges may look uneven if your tension changes at the beginning or end of each row. This is common when most of your attention is focused on following the 12-row repeat.

For scarves, blankets, washcloths, or other flat projects, you may want to add a simple garter stitch, seed stitch, or ribbed border to give the fabric a cleaner edge.

Frequently Asked Questions

Pin Now, Knit Later

Conclusion

The King Charles Brocade is a stunning historical stitch that combines structure and elegance. With its refined appearance and simple construction, it’s a satisfying project for anyone looking to expand their stitch repertoire.  This textured 12-row repeat knitting pattern creates a classic brocade-style fabric using only knit and purl stitches.

Disclosure:    This post contains affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Janice Jones is a Certified Knitting and Crochet Instructor who creates beginner-friendly patterns and tutorials, backed by a 389-page library of practical knitting and crochet content.

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